The common train of thought is that fast food Chinese food is pretty much standard fare. When you’re walking in and selecting from pre-prepared dishes, usually in the form of a multi-item combo, then the consensus appears to be that there’s little room for creative sparkle. It’s going to be some version of Panda Express-esque items, and that makes for handy Chinese food when you’re in a pinch. It’s just very ok.
Not so.
Located on the Culver City side of Venice Boulevard, precisely on the boundary separating it from Los Angeles, Chinatown Express is in a prime location surrounded by eateries and stores. There’s nothing about to suggest the extraordinary, until one tastes the food itself.
We opted for a two item combo in order to try a couple of menu items but unable to stretch our stomach over a three item combo.
We chose to go half and half with the fried rice and the chow mein noodles for a base, again in order to sample different items. The rice didn’t taste like it had been reheated for any length of time. Rather, it was hot, fluffy and a little sticky. Full of fresh flavor, and dotted with vegetables such as peas and diced carrots.
The noodles were rich and springy, coated with sauce and blessed with a sweet soy flavor. Again, they tasted fresh and new. Both of the sides were superb. So often neglected in restaurants of this type, these were simply delicious.
The two main entrees were better though. For the first, we chose barbecue pork which was absolutely incredible. The tender meat is juicy and sweet, not at all overcooked and chewy. The pieces are large and marinaded to perfection, and the portion is generous.
The sauce that coats it is rich, sweet and tart. It also blends wonderfully with the rice and noodles – able sponges.
Our second entree choice was the honey shrimp. The plump shrimp was coated with a crisp breading, golden and crunchy to the bite. It’s all coated in a sweet honey sauce that creates a caramelized effect. There are no walnuts, as is often the case, but the dish doesn’t need them. The combination of the salty shrimp, the fried coating and the tangy honey sauce makes for a dreamy meal.
Sometimes, Chinese fast food can be better than the norm and can confound expectations. That’s exactly what happened here.Chinatown Express is located at 10350 Venice Blvd., Culver City 90232. Contact 310-280-0818, or visit chinatownexpressla.com.
