Culinary Culver City – Charga House offers more than curry

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All too often in the west, we think of “Indian cuisine” as one big, all-encompassing term and don’t consider the many nuances and subtle differences in flavor than can be shoved under it. India is a big country, and each region has its own dishes. There are a minimum of 12 languages spoken in India, so just imagine how different the food can be coast to coast.

Pakistan, of course, is a country all of its own, located to the north-west of India and also bordering Iran and Afghanistan. Therefore, the food reflects the neighboring cultures, with it’s own unique twist.

That whole geography lesson is simply to underline the fact that the Chargha House, in a strip mall on Sepulveda Boulevard, serves Pakistani-Indian Halal cuisine, which basically means a whole lot of options, and a whole lot of flavor.

We chose the meat samosa for an appetizer; they’re served as a pair, with two delicious chutneys, and appear to be piping hot and straight out of the fryer. The meat has a bite but isn’t too spicy for our sensitive tongue, and the triangular casing is crisp without being too greasy. Sometimes, samosas can be dry and dull, but that’s not the case here at all.

For a main, we opted for the lamb roghan josh, tender lamb cooked in a thick, heavily-spiced yogurt sauce. No joke, this dish is out of this world. Again, those who don’t like their food too spicy can rest easy, but the lack of heat doesn’t do anything to tame the flavor. The spices dance around your mouth with reckless abandon. The meat melts like ice-cream on a hot day as soon as it tickles the end of your tongue, releasing mesmerizing flavors than continue as you swallow, making your throat sing.

We chose to enjoy the dish with a side of plain basmati rice (the grains do a wonderful job soaking up the sauce – you won’t want to waste a drop), and some parata bread (thick and crisp – the bread does a fine job mopping up the sauce and rice).

We had to take some home in a box – we couldn’t finish but it wasn’t for a lack of effort. Frankly, it took all out energy not to pick up the plate and lick it dry.

The service is warm and friendly too, and the staff will help if you have any questions. The room is informal and relaxed, but also neat and clean. We can’t recommend this restaurant enough.