First off, I’m no foodie. Far from it. My idea of a memorable meal is a double-double from In ‘n Out. So when out-of-town guests dropped by, I had to come up with a suitable dine-in restaurant for drinks and appetizers.
My boss suggested the new Harajuku Taproom on Sepulveda Boulevard, a block from the Culver City News office. The rain had let up, so it would make a nice walk, he said.
But, whoa — “it’s a Japanese eatery,” I mumbled. “With Japanese cuisine!” My boss knows that despite my heritage, I don’t eat Japanese food.
My guests, however, thought the Harajuku Taproom sounded delightful. So off we went.
Upon entering the Harajuku Taproom, owner Adam Guttentag greeted us with a warm smile, a firm handshake and a hearty “welcome.”
The restaurant’s ambiance was part American sports bar (two TV monitors airing sports, in opposite corners of the bar), wrapped in modern Japan with its wood-and-stone decor — and a series of wall-mounted, beer-label art.
We were told that the “Taproom” half of the restaurant’s name reflected the spotlight beverage on tap — “draught beer” from the Baird Brewing Co.
Ok, but Baird? That’s not Japanese, I thought.
While my guests perused the menu of traditional izakaya dishes, I was more interested in the company history.
Guttentag explained that his college classmate, Bryan Baird, married a Japanese local girl, Sayuri, and together they started the Fishmarket Taproom, a small brewpub in Numazu, Japan. From humble beginnings around the new Millennium, the Baird Brewery has grown into a major company (based in Shizuoka, Japan) with a stand-alone brewery and five restaurant/taprooms, offering both Japanese locals and others a unique craft beer experience. One of their taprooms is the original Harajuku Taproom, located in Tokyo’s Harajuku neighborhood.
Guttentag’s restaurant is a mere four months old, but with an established niche.
He explained that the Culver City Harajuku has 22 taps, offering 19 Baird beer varieties, including seasonal beers, a couple taps for guests beers, and one of the only sakes available on tap.
By the way, Harajuku Taproom is the only outlet on this side of the Pacific to offer such a wide selection of Baird Beer fresh from the tap, our host said.
“People have really responded to the balance of our beers; the underlying principal behind the beers is that balance plus complexity equals character,” Guttentag said. “West Coast IPAs are very hoppy, and so (here in the states) people are accustomed to a lot of hop bitterness. Our beers give you a taste of other ingredients that make it more complex and flavorful. All of the Baird Brewing beers are unfiltered and undergo a second fermentation in the keg.”
Hearing that, my friends ordered flights of beer, which came in four short sample glasses. (sorry, I don’t drink beer. So I observed)
Japan Tale Ale, drew a response of “Mmm, I can taste the flavor of plums,” one guest commented. “Red Rose Amber Ale, “oh yes, I like the vibrant, floral flavor. Light, not heavy,” another friend quipped. A third offering, Kurofune Porter, inspired a “so nice! A hint of chocolate!!
Each short pour of beer drew smiles, so I guess the Baird magic was working.
Guttentag said that in Japan, people come for the beer and order food to go with the beer. While in the states, patrons tend to complement their meal with beer.
In recent weeks, the Harajuku Taproom upgraded its menu and meal offerings, with a new chef and a nearly new kitchen team.
My first order was the appetizer, Karaage: Baird beer-battered fried chicken thigh on a crisp lettuce leaf and served with arty dollops of sriracha mayo.
If the food is “fried,” it has my attention. This dish didn’t disappoint. I eagerly devoured the popcorn-size chicken bites and was surprised how much more satisfying they were when dipped in the sriracha mayo.
Guttentag just had to brag about his latest offering, an appetizer called the Impossible Gyoza.
“(The Impossible Food Co.) offers meat made from plants,” our host said. “We’ve introduced two menu items with their products. the Impossible Stuffed Shishito Peppers, and the Impossible Gyoza (dumpling), which looks, cooks and tastes like meat. They are healthier, and the perfect alternative to meat meals.”
Naturally we had to give the Impossible Gyoza a try.
Surprise, surprise. From my side of the table, the Impossible meat pot-stickers stole the show. Five dumpling pouches stuffed with a sweet meat substitute, accompanied by a dish of fresh ginger sauce.
I can only describe the Impossible Gyoza as tasting delicate and springy, with an almost melt-in-your-mouth smoothness. No wonder so many people go wild over these Japanese dumplings. It can be downright addictive.
Other gyoza offerings were made with shrimp, pork and shitake mushroom.
More vegetarian and vegan dishes will be on the menu in the near future, the owner said.
The Harajuku Taproom occupies a former pizza joint, which proved to be just what Guttentag was looking for in Culver City. Located at 4410 Sepulveda Blvd., Harajuku retained the pizzeria’s patio for outside dining. If the weather gets chilly, no problem. A garage door that he added slides down between the patio and the restaurant interiors to ensure the warmth stays inside.
Guttentag’s motto seems clear: Come for the food, enjoy the beer, and stay for the hospitality. Although not necessarily in that order.